THE TEMPLE CITY –MADURAI-
By
MADURAI
SUKI
Madurai is an animated city packed
with pilgrims, beggars, businesspeople, bullock carts and legions of
underemployed rickshaw- wallahs. It is one of southern India’s oldest cities,
and has been a centre of learning and pilgrimage for centuries. Madurai’s main
attraction is the famous Sri Meenakshi Temple in the heart of the old town, a
riotously baroque example of Dravidian architecture with gopurams covered from
top to bottom in a breathless profusion of multicoloured images of gods,
goddesses, animals and mythical figures. The temple seethes with activity from
dawn till dusk, its many shrines attracting pilgrims from every part of India
and tourists from all over the world. It’s been estimated that there are 10,000
visitors here on and one day!
Madurai resembles a huge, continuous bazaar crammed with shops, street markets, temples, pilgrims, choultries, hotels, restaurants and small industries. Although one of the liveliest cities in the south, it’s small enough not to be overwhelming and is very popular with travelers.
Madurai resembles a huge, continuous bazaar crammed with shops, street markets, temples, pilgrims, choultries, hotels, restaurants and small industries. Although one of the liveliest cities in the south, it’s small enough not to be overwhelming and is very popular with travelers.
HISTORY
Madurai’s history can be divided into roughly four periods, beginning over 2000 years ago when it was the capital of the Pandyan kings. Then, in the 4th century BC, the city was known to the Greeks via Magasthenes, their ambassador to the court of Chandragupta Maurya. In the 10th century AD, Madurai was taken by the Chola emperors. It remained in their hands until the Pandyas briefly regained their independence in the 12th century, only to lose it again in the 14th century to Muslim invaders under Malik Kafur, a general in the service of the Delhi Sultanate. Here, Malik Kafure established his own dynasty, which, in turn, was overthrown by the Hindu Vijayanagar kings of Hampi. After the fall of Vijayanagar in 1565, the Nayaks ruled Madurai until 1781 AD. During the reign of Tirumalai Nayak (1623-55), the bulk of the Meenakshi Temple was built, and Madurai became the cultural center of the Tamil people, playing an important role in the development of the Tamil language.
Madurai then passed into the hands of the British East India Company, which took over the revenues of the area after the wars of the Carnatic in 1781. In 1840, the company razed the fort, which had previously surrounded the city, and filled in the moat. Four broad streets- the Veli streets –were constructed on top of this fill and define the limits of the old city to this day.
Madurai’s history can be divided into roughly four periods, beginning over 2000 years ago when it was the capital of the Pandyan kings. Then, in the 4th century BC, the city was known to the Greeks via Magasthenes, their ambassador to the court of Chandragupta Maurya. In the 10th century AD, Madurai was taken by the Chola emperors. It remained in their hands until the Pandyas briefly regained their independence in the 12th century, only to lose it again in the 14th century to Muslim invaders under Malik Kafur, a general in the service of the Delhi Sultanate. Here, Malik Kafure established his own dynasty, which, in turn, was overthrown by the Hindu Vijayanagar kings of Hampi. After the fall of Vijayanagar in 1565, the Nayaks ruled Madurai until 1781 AD. During the reign of Tirumalai Nayak (1623-55), the bulk of the Meenakshi Temple was built, and Madurai became the cultural center of the Tamil people, playing an important role in the development of the Tamil language.
Madurai then passed into the hands of the British East India Company, which took over the revenues of the area after the wars of the Carnatic in 1781. In 1840, the company razed the fort, which had previously surrounded the city, and filled in the moat. Four broad streets- the Veli streets –were constructed on top of this fill and define the limits of the old city to this day.
Sri MEENAKSHI TEMPLE
Every day, the Meenakshi Temple attracts pilgrims in their thousands from all over India. Its enormous gopurams, covered with gaily-coloured statues, dominate the landscape and are visible from many of the rooftops in Madurai. The temple is named after the daughter of a Pandyan king who, according to legend, was born with three breasts. At the time of her birth, the king was told that the extra breast would disappear when she met the man she was to marry, and this duly happened when she met Siva on Mt Kailasa. Siva told her to return to Madurai and, eight days later, arrived there himself in the form of Lord Sundareshwara to marry her.
Designed in 1560 by Vishwanatha Nayak, the present temple was substantially built during the reign of Tirumalai Nayak (1623-55 AD), but its history goes back 2000 years to the time when Madurai was the capital of the Pandya kings. These are four entrances to the temple, which occupies six hectares. It has 12 towers, ranging in height from 45 to towers, the tallest of which is the 50-metre-high southern tower. The hall of 1000 columns actually has 985.
Depending on the time of day, you can bargain for bangles, spices or saris in the bazaar between the outer and inner eastern walls of the temple, watch pilgrims bathing in the tanks, listen to temple music in front of the Meenakshi Amman Shrine (the music is relayed through the whole complex on a PA system), or wander through the interesting though decidedly dilapidated museum.
This museum, known as the Temple Art Museum, is housed in the 1000-pillared hall and contains some beautiful stone and brass images, examples of ancient south Indian scripts, friezes and various attempts to explain the Hindu pantheon and the many legends associated with it, as well as one of the best exhibits on Hindu deities anywhere. Unfortunately, many of the rebels are missing.
On most evening at 9 pm, temple music –mantras, fiddle, squeeze box, tabla and bells – is played outside the Meenakshi Amman Shrine.
Every day, the Meenakshi Temple attracts pilgrims in their thousands from all over India. Its enormous gopurams, covered with gaily-coloured statues, dominate the landscape and are visible from many of the rooftops in Madurai. The temple is named after the daughter of a Pandyan king who, according to legend, was born with three breasts. At the time of her birth, the king was told that the extra breast would disappear when she met the man she was to marry, and this duly happened when she met Siva on Mt Kailasa. Siva told her to return to Madurai and, eight days later, arrived there himself in the form of Lord Sundareshwara to marry her.
Designed in 1560 by Vishwanatha Nayak, the present temple was substantially built during the reign of Tirumalai Nayak (1623-55 AD), but its history goes back 2000 years to the time when Madurai was the capital of the Pandya kings. These are four entrances to the temple, which occupies six hectares. It has 12 towers, ranging in height from 45 to towers, the tallest of which is the 50-metre-high southern tower. The hall of 1000 columns actually has 985.
Depending on the time of day, you can bargain for bangles, spices or saris in the bazaar between the outer and inner eastern walls of the temple, watch pilgrims bathing in the tanks, listen to temple music in front of the Meenakshi Amman Shrine (the music is relayed through the whole complex on a PA system), or wander through the interesting though decidedly dilapidated museum.
This museum, known as the Temple Art Museum, is housed in the 1000-pillared hall and contains some beautiful stone and brass images, examples of ancient south Indian scripts, friezes and various attempts to explain the Hindu pantheon and the many legends associated with it, as well as one of the best exhibits on Hindu deities anywhere. Unfortunately, many of the rebels are missing.
On most evening at 9 pm, temple music –mantras, fiddle, squeeze box, tabla and bells – is played outside the Meenakshi Amman Shrine.
TIRUMALAI NAYAK PALACE
About 1.5km from the Meenakshi Temple, this Indo –Saracenic palace was built in 1636 by the ruler whose name it bears. Much of it has fallen into ruin, and the pleasure gardens and surrounding defensive wall have disappeared. Today, only the entrance gate, main hall and dance hall remain. The palace was partially restored by Lord Napier, the governor of Madras, in 1866-72, and further restoration was carried out several years ago.
There is a sound & light show (son et lumiere) in English, daily at 6:45 pm, telling Madurai’s history using sound and coloured lights and lighting is quite sophisticated.
You can get to the palace on a No 11,11A or 17 bus from the state bus stand, or take the 20 –minute walk from the Meenakshi Temple through an interesting bazaar area.
About 1.5km from the Meenakshi Temple, this Indo –Saracenic palace was built in 1636 by the ruler whose name it bears. Much of it has fallen into ruin, and the pleasure gardens and surrounding defensive wall have disappeared. Today, only the entrance gate, main hall and dance hall remain. The palace was partially restored by Lord Napier, the governor of Madras, in 1866-72, and further restoration was carried out several years ago.
There is a sound & light show (son et lumiere) in English, daily at 6:45 pm, telling Madurai’s history using sound and coloured lights and lighting is quite sophisticated.
You can get to the palace on a No 11,11A or 17 bus from the state bus stand, or take the 20 –minute walk from the Meenakshi Temple through an interesting bazaar area.
GANDHI MUSEUM
Housed in the old palace of the Rani Mangammal, this oddly moving museum provides some little-known facts about the Mahatma, although the only real piece of Gandhi memorabilia is the blood-stained dhoti from the assassination, displayed behind a bulletproof screen. The museum also has an excellent History of India display with some fine old photographs.
The local government museum is in the same grounds, as is a small bookshops stocked with plenty of Gandhi reading matter.
Housed in the old palace of the Rani Mangammal, this oddly moving museum provides some little-known facts about the Mahatma, although the only real piece of Gandhi memorabilia is the blood-stained dhoti from the assassination, displayed behind a bulletproof screen. The museum also has an excellent History of India display with some fine old photographs.
The local government museum is in the same grounds, as is a small bookshops stocked with plenty of Gandhi reading matter.
MARIAMMAN TEPPAKKULAM TANK
This tank, five km east of the old city, covers and area almost equal to that of the Meenakshi Temple and is the site of the popular Tppam Festival. For most of the year, however, it is empty save for local kids playing cricket in it. The tank was built by Tirumalai Nayak in 1646 and is connected to the Vaigai River by underground channels. The No 4 bus from the state bus stand stops at the tank.
This tank, five km east of the old city, covers and area almost equal to that of the Meenakshi Temple and is the site of the popular Tppam Festival. For most of the year, however, it is empty save for local kids playing cricket in it. The tank was built by Tirumalai Nayak in 1646 and is connected to the Vaigai River by underground channels. The No 4 bus from the state bus stand stops at the tank.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
A couple of temples outside Madurai may also be worth a visit. The Tiruparankundram rock- cut temple, eight km south of town, is one of the abodes of Sundareshwara and can be reached by bus Nos4A, 5 and 32
A couple of temples outside Madurai may also be worth a visit. The Tiruparankundram rock- cut temple, eight km south of town, is one of the abodes of Sundareshwara and can be reached by bus Nos4A, 5 and 32
Alagarkoil Temple, 21 km north of Madurai, is a
hilltop Vaishnavaite temple. During the festival of Chithirai, a gold icon is
carried in procession from this temple to Madurai.
TOURIST IMPORTANCE OF
ALAGARMALAI
This
is one of the ancient temples of South India and has figured in Parilpadal,
which is generally accepted to be written about 2000 years ago Once upon a time
Yama, the Lord of Death, while going on pilgrimage to all the sacred places on
earth, was attracted by the beautiful panoramic view of this place and
immediately sat down for meditation.. Sri Narayana was pleased with the prayers
of Yama and appeared before him and blessed him with salvation. Yama was not
pleased with his getting moksham alone; he wanted that place also to prosper.
Hence he requested Narayana to stay there and -to bless the people, to which
Narayana agreed. By that time Yama noticed that a halo of the moor was
spreading around the place and he ordered Viswakarma, the divine (architect) to
construct a Vimanam at that spot in the shape of a moon Viswakarma executed it
in no time. The Viswakarma built this beautiful temple with the three tiers “Somachandira
Vimanam” which stands for its architectural features. Narayana stayed in that Vimanam, with Sri
Devi and Bhoo Devi to bless humanity.. The Sthalapuranam states that King
Malayadhwaja built this beautiful temple with lofty gopurams and spacious
prakarams and Mantapam. The Alagar temple was renovated by Pandiya Kings during
1200 A.D followed by Naicker rulers . All the twelve Alwars, the Vaishnavite
Saints, visited this place have sung in praise of Azhagar and the beautiful
hills. All these verses numbering 123 may be seen in the Nalayira Divya
Prabandam (4000 holy verses), which is claimed to be the Tamil Veda of the
Vaishnavites. The place is also known as South Tirupati.
The Pandya kings and
later the Naick kings of Madurai were ardent devotees of Azhagar and spent huge
amounts for proper maintenance of the temple and for constructing many gopurams
and mandaparms and conducting many festivals. The temple suffered a lot in the
middle the 18th century when it was looted and partly demolished by Hyder
Ali. It used to be a very sacred place and pilgrim centre in ancient days.
It is stated in the Mahabharata that Yudhishthira visited this temple and
bathed in the Noopuragangai the holy Teertham,
here. Arjuna also is stated to have bathed in this Teertham. There are many
shrines at the top of the hill dedicated to Vinayaka, Subrahmanya, Bhairava and
Lord Siva and so this mountain is visit by devotees both Vaishnavite and
Saivite. This is said to be one of the six places held most dear by
Subrahmanya.
Azhagar
or Sundararaja is the processional deity and the Moolasthanam is known as
Paramaswami. The paramasmy image is a very beautiful one with Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi on either side. Special mention has to be made about the Chakra in one of the hands of Paramaswami, which is in the Prayoga stage (being released). The image of Azhagar, the processional deity, is made of a special and very cost variety of gold known as Aparanji. It is said that there is a similar image in Aparanji gold in the temple at Trivandrum.
Paramaswami. The paramasmy image is a very beautiful one with Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi on either side. Special mention has to be made about the Chakra in one of the hands of Paramaswami, which is in the Prayoga stage (being released). The image of Azhagar, the processional deity, is made of a special and very cost variety of gold known as Aparanji. It is said that there is a similar image in Aparanji gold in the temple at Trivandrum.
In a corner of the prakaram, Vinayaka under
the name Valampiri Vinayaka has been enshrined.The peculiar feature of this
Vinayaka that the trunk has been turned towards the right side instead of the
left as found in other temples. Vibhooti prasadam is given to that entire
worship Valampiri Vinayaka. There is another small shrine dedicate to Bhairava
also known as Kshetra Palaka. With trident in his hand he is depicted
with long nails and fearful teeth riding on his vehicle, the dog. Shrines
dedicated to Bhairava can be seen in almost all Siva temples and he (Bhairava)
is said to have been formed out of the blood of Siva. There is a legend stating
that Bhairava is none else than Siva in his Ghora Swarupam, i.e., in rage, and
it is interesting to see that a shrine is dedicated to Bhairava (one of the
other forms of Siva) in this great Vaishnavite temple.
The
temple is said to be guarded perpetually by a local Tamil deity known as Karuppanna
-swami, and he has no image and two massive wooden doors of entrance to
the gopuram at the 18th step are dedicated to him. The doors are worshipped with
all veneration. This is the main entrance of temple but will be seen closed
always. The entrance is kept open only once a year at the time of Brahma
Utsava. It is believed that a man who utters a falsehood here and passes
through the gate of eighteen steps will come to a miserable end. The parties
agreeing to follow the affirmation made in this manner have settled many a
civil suit. A fee of Rs. 5.50 is charged by the temple to record such
affirmation made before this deity.The water that is used for conducting abhishekam
to Azhagar should be brought first to this doorway and the priest should swear
that it is water brought from Noopura Ganga. When Azhagar makes his annual trip
to Madurai to attend his sister Meenakshi's marriage, a list showing the ornaments
with which Azhagar is adorned and goes out of the temple is read out before Karuppannaswami.
When Azhagar returns to the temple, a similar check is conducted. The keys of
the treasury of the temple will be entrusted to Karuppanna - swami every day in
the night.
There
is a story connected with this doorway. Once a king in Malabar wanted to take the idol of Azhagar to his
place for worship. He sent 18 people to Azhagarmalai to bring the idol. These
people were well - versed in Mantras and other religious rites and made an
attempt to remove the idol. But the temple priests who killed them and buried
them under this entrance foiled their attempt. Then the god who had come there
accompanying them surrendered before the priests and promised to guard the entrance
from that day. This god is known as the "God of the gate of eighteen
steps". There are many Mantapams and gopurams with images and sculptures
of exquisite beauty and grace. The walls of the Vasanta Mandapam inside the
temple are blazoned with fine frescoes illustrative of the story of the
Ramayana. It has a Holy water point “Noopura Gangai” a four Km walkup
the Alagar Hills, believed that drops of Sacred water fell at this place when
Brahma was washing Lord Vishnu’s feet after his Trivikrama Avatar and that
those drops spread as river Noopura Ganga. The Alagar kovil is also having
temple dedicated for “Goddess Rakkayi” at the top of the hill near the
spring, who is supposed to be in charge of all the shrines and Teerthams in
this mountain. She is said to be the daughter of Angirasa Muni. New-moon days
are very auspicious to worship this deity, and thousands of people offer
worship to her on these days The Alagar hills have a tropical forest cover
which extends from Alagar kovil in the south to Natham in the north. The
Tamilnadu forest department has been maintaining a ‘herbal garden’ in
the hills. The Garden is irrigated by a natural spring locally known as the
Devi theertham. Ismail et.al.(2007) proves by his study that the leaves and seeds of C.bonduc available at
Alagar koil hills can be used for the purpose of mosquito control operation
which will be economic, non pollutant and eco-friendly.
HISTORY OF ALAGARKOVIL IN TAMIL LITERATURE
Tamil,Telugu,pirami
and other ancient inscriptions are found in this temple. The archaeological
studies about the Epigraphy found in this area proves that the temple is in
existence from B.C.2-3 century (Muthu Pichai 2005).The hill was once a safe
refuge for the jain monks in 1 B.C,the presence of pirami script carved on
stones proved the presence of jains in this area (Muthukonar.s 1973). Nakkirar,
the Tamil poet has composed several popular poems about this diety.As
the place itself suggests, the temple is dedicated to alagar who is popularly
known as Sundrarajar.It is said that it attracted the pilgrims even in the
early days of the Sangam age.(Mohan.R 2004). This is one of the ancient temples
of South India and has figured in Parilpadal, which is generally accepted to be
written about 2000 years ago(Balasubramanian.P.et al 2004).The Famous Silapadikaram
too, that belongs to the 3rd Century ,points out to this temple as a
Vishnu temple.
FESTIVELS OF ALGARKOIL AND COMMUNAL
HARMONY
Many festivals takes
place in this temple which promotes the communal harmony of the people in and
around Madurai. Many festivals is being celebrated during most of the Tamil
months. In the month of Chitirai – Chithra festival, Vaikasi – Vasantham
festival, Aadi – Car festival, Purattasi – Navaraathiri festival, Iyppasi –
Diwali, Kaarthigai – Light festival, Maasi – Gajendra moksham, Panguni – Divine
wedding ceremony. Among this Chithra festival and Car festival are important
festivals. Chithra festival is lasts for nine days, on the fourth day Alagar is
taken to Madurai in human form where he attend his sister Sri Meenakshi Ammans
marriage. This is a very joyous occasion for the people at Alagar Malai and
Madurai. Lakhs of people come from surrounding Towns and Villages to see the
festival. On the ninth day, Alagar returns to his shrine. During this
festival Sowndararaja Perumal is renamed
as Kallalagar.
During the Aadi festival the near
by villagers enjoy the privilege of dragging the temple car on the ninth day ( pournami
) of the ten days program. The car has four ropes, the Villiyankundram Jamin is given respect for pulling the first
rope. The second rope is pulled by the west street villages of
Narasiingampatti, Vellarippatti, Ramanathapuram. The third rope is pulled by
the north street villages of Velkelapatti, Arittapatti, Kallanthiri,
Kallampatti, Maankulam, Kidaripatti, Goundankulam. The fourth rope is pulled by
the villages of Therkutheru. Before starting the car festival the villagers sit
together and settle disputes if any among them every year.
After the car pulling is completed all
these villagers are respected by the temple by giving 7 Dosai, 120 Padi Rice,
20 Padi Cooked food and Rs 10000.00 each. Still now these practice is in
existence. Also during chithra festival Villiyankundram Jamin is given the first respect for their
earnest efforts to protect the belongings of the temple and the people living
around. Even now they follow the procession of the presiding deity as guards of
the temple jewels.
Traditionally, certain families
perform certain works during the chithra festival. The Samanatham kaikkol
mudaliyar are responsible for taking the Urchavar ( seer paadam thaangikal ),
Jothiyapatti moopar are responsible for Hundials, Sivagangai Aani Kathan family
is responsible for lamps (theevatti ), Veeramuthali family is responsible for
carrying Umbrellas to the Alagar. Thus, people belonging to various community
get together and celebrates the temple festivals.
These festivals promotes the
communal harmony of the people and thousands of villagers lives in unity. As
many festivals takes place throughout the year and many people assembles
throughout the year, this Alagarkoil is spot as a tourist place also this is
situated near hills, the climate is so cool that attracts many people to visit
this place. At the top of the hill there is Noopuragangai, holy waterfalls (
theertha thotti ). Pazhamuthr cholai, a famous Murugan temple, one of the
temples of Arupadaiveedu is situated on the top of hill also attracts many
people.
FESTIVALS
Madurai celebrates 11 big annual temple festivals with only the monsoon month, called Ani in Tamil, devoid of festivities. Check with the tourist office for festival dates.
The principal event is Chithirai (late April/early May), which celebrates the marriage of Sri Meenakshi to Sundareshwara (Siva) on the festival’s 10th day. The next morning, the deities are wheeled around the Masi streets on huge chariots followed by thousands of devotees.
Another festival which attracts pilgrims from all over India is the 12-day Teppam (Float) Festival held in January or early Meenakshi and Sundareshwara are mounted on floats and taken to the Mariamman Teppakkulam Tank. For several days, they are pulled back and forth across the water to the island temple in the tank’s center, before being taken back to Madurai.
Madurai celebrates 11 big annual temple festivals with only the monsoon month, called Ani in Tamil, devoid of festivities. Check with the tourist office for festival dates.
The principal event is Chithirai (late April/early May), which celebrates the marriage of Sri Meenakshi to Sundareshwara (Siva) on the festival’s 10th day. The next morning, the deities are wheeled around the Masi streets on huge chariots followed by thousands of devotees.
Another festival which attracts pilgrims from all over India is the 12-day Teppam (Float) Festival held in January or early Meenakshi and Sundareshwara are mounted on floats and taken to the Mariamman Teppakkulam Tank. For several days, they are pulled back and forth across the water to the island temple in the tank’s center, before being taken back to Madurai.
PLACES TO STAY
TAJ GARDEN RETREAT, (Government Approved) Heritage
HOTEL MADURAI ASHOK, (Government Approved )3 Star
HOTEL INTERNATIONAL
HOTEL SUPREME
TAJ GARDEN RETREAT, (Government Approved) Heritage
HOTEL MADURAI ASHOK, (Government Approved )3 Star
HOTEL INTERNATIONAL
HOTEL SUPREME
THINGS TO BUY
Madurai has long been a textile centre and the streets around the temple still teem with cloth stalls and tailors’ shops. A great place to buy locally manufactured cottons as well as the batiks loved by many travellers is Puthu Mandapam, an old, stone-pillared hall just along from the eastern entrance to Sri Meenakshi Temple. Here you’ll find lines of textile stalls opposite rows of tailors, each busily treading away and capable of whipping up a good replica of whatever you’re wearing in an hour or two. If you’re buying cloth to get garments made up, it’s wise to know how much material you’ll need as some merchants will talk you into buying way too much only to strike a deal with the tailor who makes your clothes to keep the leftovers. The owner of the Krishnamoorthy Cloth Store (stall No 108) is reliable and gives fair prices for material. In addition, he the many street touts who’ll offer to take you to their ‘brother’s shop’ at Puthu Mandapam
Madurai has long been a textile centre and the streets around the temple still teem with cloth stalls and tailors’ shops. A great place to buy locally manufactured cottons as well as the batiks loved by many travellers is Puthu Mandapam, an old, stone-pillared hall just along from the eastern entrance to Sri Meenakshi Temple. Here you’ll find lines of textile stalls opposite rows of tailors, each busily treading away and capable of whipping up a good replica of whatever you’re wearing in an hour or two. If you’re buying cloth to get garments made up, it’s wise to know how much material you’ll need as some merchants will talk you into buying way too much only to strike a deal with the tailor who makes your clothes to keep the leftovers. The owner of the Krishnamoorthy Cloth Store (stall No 108) is reliable and gives fair prices for material. In addition, he the many street touts who’ll offer to take you to their ‘brother’s shop’ at Puthu Mandapam
